Farm to Ferment
Mendo Ferments Makes Locally Inspired, Creatively Crafted, Deliciously Fermented Foods
by Sara Stapleton
“Fermentation is magic. It’s alchemy, really,” shared Michelle Costa, the owner and creative force behind Mendo Ferments, as we peered into a sturdy steel fermentation vat. Visible inside of the vessel, under the weight of traditional ceramic fermentation stones, was the vibrant magenta hue that only her Beet Ginger Sauerkraut could impart. Alchemy—a word that may conjure thoughts of the ancient mystery of transformation and creation—can, in its simplest sense, be described as taking something ordinary and turning it into something extraordinary. Some might argue that cabbage is anything but ordinary, and Michelle’s creations surely dance with it. Salt, spices, and time, paired with farm fresh produce and her trained and watchful senses, bring to life delicious, healthful, living foods jarred and bottled for us to enjoy.
Fermented foods have existed for thousands of years, allowing people throughout history to preserve their harvests and to create foods and beverages that were more easily digestible. Within the last decade or so, they have come wildly back in style, and for good reason. Research suggests that the gut may actually be the center of our health, affecting not only our physical body, but our mental and emotional states as well. Believe it or not, serotonin, a neurotransmitter and key hormone that acts to stabilize our mood and feelings of well being, is made there. The gut is also home to a large part of our immune system, and by enjoying fermented foods teeming with probiotics, you are nourishing its lining, or mucosa, and strengthening that natural barrier. Ferments are truly an ally for the times.
Michelle began experimenting with kombucha in the 1990s, but it was in 2010 that the fun really began, when she and her husband, Craig, picked up a crock and Sandor Katz’s early zine on fermentation at Bountiful Gardens’ old Willits storefront. She cites Katz’s work, as well as the classic cookbook, Nourishing Traditions (Fallon, 1995), and the Cultured Pickle Shop in Berkeley, to be amongst some of her biggest inspirations. But what she does is truly a work of her own.
Michelle allows her love of the land and the seasonal bounties it provides to guide her in crafting many of her specialty products. Springtime brings her “Mendo Blendo” kraut, made with the delights of fresh wild greens and flowers—dandelion, chickweed, yarrow, burdock, and violet—and reminding us that food is medicine. She also crafts a jun made with our regional delight, the candycap mushroom, as well as a home-brewed madrone bark tea—a true taste of place. After a few years of experimenting in her own kitchen, Michelle was feeling called to create something for herself. She had discovered how good these foods felt in the body and wanted to share the gift of fermentation with the greater community. So, Mendo Ferments was born.
Mendo Ferments got its start with the help of the folks at Mariposa Market, who allowed Michelle to bulk order organic vegetables to be delivered to the store, solving one of the problems of living rurally where large trucks simply can’t access. She also credits the Little Lake Grange as instrumental in the success of her business, as they have allowed her, along with a few other local entrepreneurs, to rent their commercial kitchen space at a fair rate. It is difficult to find affordable commercial space in the area, but she does someday hope to find a place for Mendo Ferments to call home.
In 2019, Michelle met with a local business advisor. They shared ideas for ways she could grow her business, and while she took the advice to heart, and even drove down to Sonoma Country to begin marketing her product, she soon had a realization—she really didn’t want to grow her business to a large, impersonal scale. What she really wanted was to stay truly hands-on and to be involved in every step of the process, with quality remaining paramount. Admirably, Michelle says that while she may never get rich, she wants to stay small and serve our community by being a big part of our local food web.
This local food web has played a huge part during COVID-19, particularly in regard to the area’s food supply. “It’s not just by chance that we were able to be so resilient here in Mendocino County, to adapt and continue to thrive while so many big name grocers throughout the country were left with their produce supply dwindling. It was the farmers and food producers here that created that,” Michelle said. It is as a result of their hard work and commitment that we’ve been able eat so well, even through those early, uncertain months of the pandemic.
Michelle purchases from area farms such as Covelo Organics, Inland Ranch, and the New Agrarian Collective whenever possible, and you will often see her take a quick step away from her booth at the farmers market to roam the stalls and see what is fresh and in the moment. “It can be hard, you know! With so many incredible things always popping up, we often find ourselves making lots of fun, small batches inspired by what we find.” With many of these batches not large enough for her higher volume accounts, you might be able to scoop one up at the farmers market if you’re lucky! In addition to some of her most popular offerings, such as Kim Chee, the Sea Witch Sauerkraut made with locally sourced sea palm, and a hibiscus jun, you’ll also find seasonal items such as fresh cucumber pickles, a local rose kombucha, and a white Kim Chee made with the addition of Asian pear.
In talking with Michelle about her products, and even more so in tasting them, her excitement and passion for the craft and of the care that goes into them really shine through. And though often behind the scenes, her husband, Craig, plays a big part in the production process, and is key in recipe research and development.
There is an abundance of possibilities for enjoying the goodies within Mendo Ferments’ charming cylindrical jars. Kim Chee over ramen or in fried rice, sauerkraut atop salad or piled on a warm Reuben sandwich. And don’t forget the kombucha to quench your thirst while delivering delicious benefits for your belly. All told, we are lucky to have our own local “Kim Chee Lady.” To your health!
Mendo Ferments is available at local organic markets and co-ops and the Ukiah, Fort Bragg, and Willits farmers markets, as well as the MendoLake Food Hub.
MendoFerments.com | @mendoferments (Instagram)
Sara Stapleton lives and farms with her partner in the mountainous valleys of southwest Willits, and is currently sowing the seeds for her postpartum doula business.
