Black Walnut Bitters

A Homemade Digestive for Cocktails and Cooking

by Lisa Ludwigsen

In the world of herbalism, bitters hold a respected place as an aid to digestion and an important component to maintaining a healthy gut. The saying goes that “bitter is better,” meaning that incorporating bitter ingredients, like herbs, veggies, and spices, will complete a balanced diet. Though bitter conjures negative associations in our modern world of sugary indulgence, bitter flavors give depth to a dish or drink and really can improve our overall health.

Bitters in liquid form show up as tinctures and as a category of liquor known as digestives. Amaro, Angostura, and Nocino are a few mainstream digestives that are commonly consumed before or after meals. Walnuts are often used in bitter potions. The leaves and hulls (the pulpy green covering of the shell and nut) have been employed for centuries as treatments for ailments both internal and topical. Nocino is made from unripe walnuts combined with herbs and spices, then steeped in grain alcohol. The resulting dark, herbaceous, and slightly sweet concoction tastes tantalizing and unusual.

Walnut trees in Northern California typically fall into two varieties, the indigenous black walnut, Juglans Californica hindsii, and the English walnut, Juglans regia. The two varieties look similar but have different leaf shape and bark variations. An easy way to distinguish black from English walnuts is to look at the trunk. English walnuts are often grafted onto black walnut trunks because the native walnut is more resistant to disease and pest predation. If you notice an abrupt change in the trunk that looks like two pieces melded together, you are probably looking at an English walnut grafted onto black walnut stock. We value English walnuts because the shells are relatively easy to crack, compared with black walnuts which require much more fortitude to open.

Walnut bitters as tinctures have been showing up in everything from craft cocktails to specialty coffee drinks. Walnut hulls imbue the bitters with a complex, herb-forward profile that can add depth and cut the sweetness of a Manhattan or Old Fashioned. A couple of drops of walnut bitters can also add dimension to a soup or sauce.

Fortunately, recipes for walnut bitters can use either black or English walnuts, and both are easy to find growing in Mendocino County. Ukiah used to be prime walnut farmland, with orchards dotting the landscape where vineyards now thrive. Drive down the street and you’ll likely pass stately walnuts adding to mature landscapes.

Making walnut bitters at home is easy and provides an opportunity to have some fun with new flavors that can sometimes be found right in your neighborhood. Timing and patience are key. The hulls need to be picked when the nuts inside are half formed, before the hulls dry out completely and begin to separate from the shell. Choose hulls that are still green with a little yellowing. Separate them from the shells. Dry the hulls by laying them on paper towels in a dark spot with good air circulation. I like to use the top of my laundry dryer. The hulls will turn black while drying. When the hulls are completely dry they are ready to be made into a tincture.

This recipe is adapted from a similar recipe on the blog site Schisandra & Bergamot. Note that walnuts contain an ingredient, juglone, which will inhibit decomposition and can cause allergic reactions in some people. Also, walnut hulls will permanently stain anything they come into contact with, so wear gloves and protect counters and clothing when working with them.

Black Walnut Bitters

INGREDIENTS

• 1 c dried and chopped walnut hulls

• 3 tsp cinnamon chips (this can be crushed cinnamon sticks)

• 2 tsp cacao nibs (Cacao nibs impart a chocolatey background taste. Omit if you don’t have these on hand and don’t want to invest in an entire bag for just 2 teaspoons.)

• 1 tsp whole cloves

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

• 1 tsp dried orange peel

• Approximately 2 c of 80 proof or higher alcohol, such as vodka

INSTRUCTIONS

In a clean jar, combine all ingredients and stir. Pour in enough alcohol so that all ingredients are completely covered.

Cover the jar with a tightly fitting lid and store in a dark place for at least three weeks and up to three months. Feel free to gently swirl and sample the concoction occasionally to gauge the developing flavors. The longer it sits, the more complex the overall product.

Strain with a coffee filter or cheesecloth in a sieve and discard or compost the spent material.

Your bitters are now ready to use! Start by adding just a drop or two to a cocktail. Use them in place of Angostura bitters with sparkling water, or add them to a sauce. Remember that a little goes a long way. Feel free to experiment with added ingredients like coffee beans, citrus peels, or cacao nibs.