Adapting and Evolving in Comptche

by Anna Levy

Big Mesa Farm in Comptche is always evolving. Owner Caymin Ackerman founded the CCOF-certified organic farm in 2012 in Bolinas and moved to Mendocino County four years ago. For her, change is nothing new.

In some ways, Big Mesa Farm is a long way from its roots. Now encompassing four acres, four hoop houses, and completely off-grid, the farm had a much more modest beginning. Caymin explains, “I worked for a quite masterful farmer [Blake Richards of Wild Rose Farm] up in Humboldt for about eight years. I was very inspired by what he did and by the individual himself.” It seemed to make sense for her to go into farming, but she wasn’t clear how to start. “My friend’s advice was to go look for a place where you want to be, where you want to spend time. Bolinas is right on the ocean, and I like to surf, so I said—how about there.”

The instinct was right. After “knocking on doors” to find possible land, Caymin met some folks who had planned on farming their own land before changing direction. They were willing to lease some of their land, so Caymin started Big Mesa Farm in their front yard, growing a single herb that first year and earning herself a reputation as “Lady Cilantro.”

“It got more diverse from there,” she says, “I expanded over across the driveway—that was the second land. Then I was doing five acres with two different landlords basically with virgin land; no one had done irrigation or anything, so that was basically doing it from scratch.” It was satisfying, productive work, yet over time, Caymin says that she started to feel worn down by the process of farming others’ land. “There were multiple leases going on during those seven years,” she explains. “And I felt really good about all my landlords, but it became apparent that it would feel good to have a little more security.”

In 2019, she found herself back at almost the beginning, though this time she was searching for land that would support a business she’d already built. “At the time, I was doing quinoa farming on the side in Mendocino County,” she says. “We had a combine that would always break down. There was this mechanic we’d flag down, and he turned out to be a friend. Through that connection, he mentioned that his daughter was selling her place out in Comptche.” The timing and connection were fortuitous. “This place was previously a cannabis operation, and cannabis was falling through. We were super fortunate to be able to get into a place out in Comptche that’s incredible.”

The years since have brought lessons about farming in this unique climate, the value of a strong community, and the importance of leaning on others. Without an irrigation system in place in the beginning, for example, much of the land was dry farmed the first year. At the same time, Caymin worked to understand the rhythm of the seasons. “I am unaccustomed to this climate—hot in the summer, cold in the winter—so we’re still figuring out what we should be growing.” She’s enjoying the lessons but also understands that they take time. “That’s a long process. We’d love to still spend some time with the weather so we learn the lessons: sunburnt tomatoes, beans are stunted, oh it’s either too hot or too cold for early radish.”

Being in Mendocino County has also brought specific changes in how the farm does business. Caymin explains, “We do wholesale and direct.” The farm’s produce can be found both on the coast and inland, at Harvest Market, Corners of the Mouth, and Ukiah Natural Foods. Though they have been traditionally a wholesale farm, Caymin says, “Farmers markets get amazing support up here. We’re doing about 50% gross sales in farmers markets, making us turn our eye towards putting more diversity in the field.”

As Big Mesa broadens their focus to honor the presence of farmers markets, they also look toward increasing the types of crops they grow. “There’s not a huge population overall. So that’s difficult—it means more diversity at the markets that you do go to. In the Bay Area, I could do three different crops and be fine, and move tons of them. Here you have to break it up a little more because you can’t sell as many of any one thing during a week.”

Still, Caymin is loving the challenge and the community. “It’s really been a joy to move to this county. I love the community. I’m super thankful. We’ve been very well received, I’m really happy about that.” It allows her to dream of continuing to work with good people and in a peaceful place. To that end, she has started inviting volunteers out to work the farm once a month. She is also contemplating how to grow the farm’s presence in the winter months, and how to strengthen the farmers markets during the slower seasons overall. She also continues to commit to processes that are least harmful to the planet: organic practices, managing water and sewage on the farm, even using an electric delivery van that is powered by solar energy.

The electric van is just part of the efforts to make the farm entirely carbon neutral, spearheaded by Caymin’s dad, Bruce Ackerman, who lives on the property. The farm is powered by solar, and water, electricity, and waste are all managed on-site. The residents use induction cooking, passive solar, and electric water heating, as well as general efficiency and even electric car charging capabilities, to reduce their dependency on fossil fuels.

Regardless of the form it takes, these measures are rooted in Caymin’s core values, which have always guided Big Mesa’s work. “We’re trying to do things in ways that are better for the planet,” she explains. “I do believe in a small, local farm. I also believe in the intrinsic value of a farm in a community. It makes it more fun.”

“A farm takes a community,” Caymin says. And Big Mesa Farm is one that will continue growing here, ½ hour from the sea, reaching into both wholesale markets and into people’s homes, simultaneously building the farm itself and the sense of interconnectedness.

Find Big Mesa Farm at the Fort Bragg and Ukiah farmers markets, as well as at BigMesaFarm.com.

Anna Levy lives on the Mendocino Coast with her family.