Izakaya Gama
A People-First Mendocino Institution
by Sara Stapleton
Driving through the coastal hamlet of Point Arena a decade ago, things felt pretty quiet. My mom and I were staying in nearby Anchor Bay, and we had been directed to Point Arena’s pier with the promise that, if we got there at just the right time, we’d be rewarded with fresh fish right off the boat. It was a weekday as I recall, and I remember driving up Main Street with hardly a person in sight.
Recently, though, this little village by the sea has seen a new influx of creative energy. With its mild climate, rich river-bottom soils perfect for growing beautiful produce, and the bounty of the sea at its edge, it’s no surprise that the area has drawn those passionate about farming, cooking, and eating alike. Izakaya Gama is one of the newest additions here, and the proprietors couldn’t be happier to finally open their doors.
David and Elyse Hopps, owners and co-creators of Izakaya Gama, migrated to Mendocino County in 2018 to be a part of the culinary team at the now Michelin-starred Harbor House Inn in Elk. They quickly fell in love with the area and settled into the small community. But after spending years honing his skills at Saison in San Francisco and then working as sous chef of Harbor House, David felt called to step away from the exclusive nature of fine dining. The husband-and-wife team wanted to create a space where unique, high quality cuisine could be enjoyed by locals and tourists alike—to offer an approachable, more affordable menu that could appeal to everyone. Having spent their formative cooking years working in Japanese restaurants, David and Elyse were ready to make their dream of opening their own izakaya a reality, serving the community that they had come to love.
In Japan, izakayas are casual, lively gathering places that can be found in almost every corner of the country. Something akin to a gastropub or tavern, the atmosphere is relaxed, but the food is never overlooked. It is a place for people to decompress after a long day of work, or to come together with friends. It is warm and welcoming, and that is the feeling that Gama aims to provide. “Gama is a place for people to go out, have fun, and sample a variety of incredible foods from our area,” said David.
True to the style of traditional izakayas, dishes are presented in the form of small plates, lending to the convivial atmosphere and perfectly suited for sharing. The menu offers skewered local meats such as chicken, duck, or Wagyu beef from their kushiyaki grill, Japanese-style pickles, the occasional spotlight on Fort Bragg uni, and their crispy, crunchy karaage—fried chicken with aioli and house-made shichimi togarashi (a spice blend of Piment d’Ville, sea lettuce, black sesame, and sansho pepper)!
An important element to any traditional izakaya is their beverages. Gama sources a wide selection of sakes and Japanese craft beers. Elyse recently became certified as a sake sommelier, so don’t be afraid to ask for suggestions!
In his time as a sous chef in the area, David has built close and reciprocal relationships with many farmers, fisherman, and craftspeople, as well as with the MendoLake Food Hub. Gama’s cuisine, in true Japanese style, hopes to truly showcase the ingredients themselves, allowing them to shine in their delicious simplicity. The menu features what is found in abundance here—crisp, flavorful root crops and tender greens, fresh seafood and other salt water delights, as well as different mushrooms and fungi foraged for use in broths and other dishes. While they will feature some different types of sushi on the menu, the Chef points out that, for the sake of our environment, Gama won’t be flying in fish from all over the globe. Elyse and David are very passionate about creating a restaurant and a business that is sustainable, and a big piece of this is working to source things as close to home as possible, working with the incredible ingredients that we already have at our fingertips.
Photos left to right: Restaurant front with a Noren curtain displaying the logo (Gama means toad in Japanese); Karaage—Japanese fried chicken; Elyse and David Hopps at their soft opening.
It has taken a generous serving of patience and perseverance for Gama to finally be able to welcome guests into their beautiful restaurant space, which is graced with a long local cypress wood bar and tables. In April of 2020, the couple first got word of a space available in Point Arena and decided to take a look. Although it was in the earliest and most uncertain days of the pandemic, they saw the potential, and the seed of bringing their vision to life was planted. Throughout the next few months, they faced countless discouraging delays, but though progress had slowed to crawl, they were committed. So in the spirit of the times and in the spirit of this place, they adapted.
Luckily, the owner of their as-yet unusable restaurant on the south end of Point Arena also owned a small space with a kitchen on the north end of town. While there wasn’t indoor seating, there was a take-out window, which was perfect given the pandemic restrictions. David and Elyse decided to offer a pop-up, to-go style service, which met with great success. Through the window of the small, brightly colored space, they served many a bowl of rich, steaming ramen, with other menu items announced each week through social media. Giving the people a taste of what was to come allowed them to gain local support and to get their name out, while providing comfort and nourishment in whatever delicious way they could throughout those strange, unpredictable times.
The buzz and excitement has been building, and Gama began taking reservations in their dine-in restaurant on April 1st. Be sure to find your way out to the south coast and take a seat with friends, or cozy up to the bar and make some new ones! Izakaya Gama is sure to be exactly the warm, welcoming space that we could all use these days. And the food, well, you can be sure it will be local, fresh, sustainable, and delicious. Kanpai!
Izakaya Gama
150 Main St, Point Arena | (707) 485-9232 | Izakaya-Gama.com
Open Wednesday - Sunday, 4 - 9pm
Sara Stapleton makes her home in a mountainous valley southwest of Willits and works as a postpartum doula with a focus on providing nourishing whole foods to new mamas and families. You can also find her selling New Agrarian Collective’s beautiful produce at the farmers market from time to time, and exploring the backroads of our county with her partner whenever she can.