Drewish Deli
New York Quality Bagels in the Heart of Healdsburg
by Barbara Barrielle
When you think of a business born in a garage, you probably think of a technology startup, not a bagel company. Yet in 2018, Drew Ross did just that when he started Healdsburg Bagel Company in his home garage—after turning it into a commercial kitchen, of course.
Originally from New York where good bagels are plentiful, Drew Ross moved to Healdsburg in 2005 after a career as a professional touring musician. When his father-in-law came to visit, Drew, then practicing psychotherapy, was hard pressed to find a decent bagel anywhere in Sonoma County. So he did what any enterprising bagel lover would, and in 2013, he embarked on his quest to create his own perfect bagel recipe.
New York’s favorite carb is boiled and then baked. While some people give credit to the water of New York for their renowned bagels, Drew had to adjust for our local H2O. Hundreds of recipe tweaks and thousands of batches later, Drew let his friends have a taste. With their enthusiastic approval earned, he started Healdsburg Bagel Company (HBC) in 2018. He converted his garage into a commercial kitchen, put his kids and some of their friends to work, and started delivering bagels to homes around Healdsburg.
He also took to social media. “I put a post on Facebook and told folks about the bagels and offered local delivery. People responded and I got pretty busy with that. I then got the bagels into Big John’s Market. They were my first wholesale account. It just kept building from there.”
I was one of his early customers and had a standing order for a dozen assorted (mostly everything) bagels delivered to my door every two weeks. Those little circles of heaven would arrive warm and fresh, hand-delivered by Drew himself. I just needed to make sure I had cream cheese on hand. “My family is all from Brooklyn but they moved to Los Angeles in the 1950s,” says Drew. “They found a good bagel shop on Beverly Boulevard and made that a regular stop after shabbat dinners and LA Dodger games on Friday nights. Fresh bagels that night and for the Sabbath the next day.” Drew branched out to sell bagels, cream cheese, breakfast sandwiches, deli specials, and other typical Jewish favorites, including challah, babka, and the classic matzo ball soup—which flies out of the door as soon as each batch is made.
During the pandemic, Drew and Healdsburg Bagel Company expanded wholesale accounts and increased the number of North Bay farmers markets he attended. He moved out of the garage and rented commercial space as demand grew. HBC was present at 14-16 farmers markets a week when his commercial accounts passed 20, and at a single farmer’s market like Fort Mason in San Francisco, Drew could blow through 600 bagels in a morning. His business was booming. It was time to take the next step.
“I had confidence in finding a retail shop. The town was rallying behind me, tourists supportive, too,” explains Ross. “I leased 1500 square feet and a kitchen in a former restaurant in Healdsburg, hired my manager Elizabeth Cosin, and have a significant staff for catering. We are open as a deli four days a week and, although I never thought this would be my full-time job, it is and it’s profitable.”
Drewish Deli opened in July 2023 on Mitchell Lane, just north of Healdsburg’s bustling downtown square. The space is simply designed with classic white subway tile, rustic wood paneling, and deep navy blue accents. The deli serves good coffee, and there’s plenty of camaraderie among the locals who gather there around the various tables. You can sink your teeth into the fresh, chewy bagel—maybe with a healthy size schmear of scallion cream cheese and a few slices of housecured gravlax, topped with fresh-sliced tomatoes and onions and sprinkled with capers. It’s delicious and much cheaper than flying to New York for a fix.
As for the Drewish future: “The deli is definitely keeping me very busy, but I am working on a rather large distribution deal in the new year and also looking at providing “deli baskets” for gifts for the holidays,” says Drew. “Also, going to continue to develop and expand the deli menu. Who knows where the future will take me!“
If you find yourself in Healdsburg, satisfy your bagel and deli craving and support a true local business every Thursday through Monday. The enterprise started with the search for a good bagel and now supports a team of employees and several families—and makes a whole lot of former New Yorkers and current bagel lovers very happy.
Drewish Deli
11 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg
(707) 955-0600 | DrewishDeli.com
Open Thurs - Mon 7:30am – 2:30pm
Barbara Barrielle is a freelance wine and travel writer as well as a film producer. She is also the press contact for Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association and can be reached at press@avwa.com. Follow her @barbarabarrielletravels.
Photos courtesy of Drewish Deli